How to eat a pig

Babi guling. A royally delicious dish, a must for any pork lover. A whole pig stuffed with an array of aromatics including lemongrass, coriander seeds, turmeric, pepper (recipes vary from restaurant to restaurant), and spit roasted. The result: not just juicy flesh and an unbelievably crunchy skin, but the every inch of meat and offal are all used to create a myriad of delicious elements which sum up to create a truly godly dish.

Now, babi guling was originally intended as a celebratory dish but the advent and spread of tourism throughout this island has meant that this dish is available year-around. Rarely does tourism do good things for local food, but in this case, I approve.

In this article, I'm gonna recommend two places which are both state-of-the-babi-art, in my view. I'll start with Babi Guling Sanur. As a hungry diver on my way to catch the ferry from Sanur to Nusa Lembongan, I had to make a pitstop at this restaurant to pickup a portion for takeaway.

This was my first ever babi guling, but I knew from my research that this was meant to be one of the best, and it certainly didn't disappoint. Crunchy skin (could be a bit crunchier or more glass like in my view), moist meat permeated with turmeric and lemongrass, pork satay brimming with caramelised lemongrass overtones (see my Vietnam posts to understand more about why I like this pork and lemongrass combination so much), crunchy shredded intestines dotted with tiny hits of fiery chili, a fatty sausage, chicharron, crunchy vegetables, fried liver. The rice, which is stained with the colour of turmeric and the fire of the chili, brings together all the extremely spicy and flavourful elements of the dish.

And, their soup, which comes as part of meal, was one of the best soups I've ever had. Pork bones, mung beans, greens, and a crunchy vegetable that resembles a lotus root (but with more holes in it, and not starchy) together with plenty of lemongrass and chili, make for a superb accompaniment to the plethora of pork. All for just 40,000 Rupiah.

After our diving escapades in Nusa Lembongan and a memorable encounter with magnificant manta rays, we needed to try more roasted babi. Again, research directed us to another restaurant frequented regularly by locals: Babi Guling Candra (or Chandra, depending on who you ask). Overall, very good. Less spicy than Babi guling Sanur, and probably a better introduction to the dish if you are a tad sensitive to chili.

The flesh and skin were similar to those of the Sanur restaurant, and the pork satay was equally delicious (though a tad sweeter). One other difference was the pork terrine-esque satay on a stick (the turmeric-coloured one), which was extremely flavourful and quite mild from a Scoville scale point of view. The price was about the same (35,000 or 40,000 Rupiah, I can't recall), a definite steal of a meal.

A side note: on the global scale of pork skin, these two places do pretty well. But still a bit behind the exceptional glass like crunch of CnT's lechon in Cebu.

Warung Babi Guling Sanur

Jalan Bypass Ngurah Rai, Denpasar Selatan, Bali (tell you taxi driver it's opposite McDonald's on Jalan Bypass Ngurah Rai)

Open: Mon – Sun 11am – 7pm (get there early to avoid disappointment)

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/indonesia/bali/sanur/restaurants/indonesian/warung-babi-guling-sanur

Babi Guling Candra

Jalan Teuku Umar, Denpasar Bar., Kota Denpasar, Bali 80113

Open: Mon – Sun 7am - 10pm

Gudeg goodness

Indonesia's regional food variations are exciting, reflecting the diversity of people and cultures within this huge country. Gudeg, the highly acclaimed dish from Yogyakarta, is no exception.

Gudeg (pronounced goo – derrrg) is a stew made of young (unripened) jackfruit. On its own, I think it's too sweet. Like even too sweet for a dessert. Fortunately for me, gudeg is typically served with other 'balancing' dishes which can create a truly marvelous, albeit indulgently rich, meal.

So who are gudeg's partners in crime? At Gudeg Sagan, one of Yogya's most highly acclaimed gudeg spots, they are a rich, creamy coconut based curry (above, top picture) and an incredibly spicy cow stomach stew (above, bottom picture). These partners were born to be eaten together. The creamy, slightly sweet notes of the curry marry perfectly with the intense heat of the stew. The tenderness of the chicken meat (in my case drumstick) goes hand in hand with the gelatinous chew of the cow stomach. Add a little bit of sweet gudeg to the mix, and you'll understand why Yogyakartans love this dish so much.

Gudeg Sagan

http://www.gudegsagan.com/index.php

Open: Monday – Sunday, 16.00 until late (or when the gudeg is gone)

Crabs, done brilliantly

Bandung. An underrated destination in my opinion. Volcanoes, crater lakes, stunning green vistas, berry picking opportunities, refreshing weather and, of course, excellent food. Despite being inland, the seafood here is pretty darn good.

I'll start with Praoe Seafood whose Black Pepper Crabs, are, quite simply, the best I've ever eaten. Imagine fresh, juicy crab meat enlivened with a molten black pepper and chilli-infused sauce. Ridiculously delicious, and you'll be licking your fingers for days to come. At a mere 16 USD for two large crabs, I really doubt there is a better way to spend your money. 

We also tried their 'sweet and sour' prawns, whose sauce was not so memorable, but the freshness of the prawns was extremely impressive.

We did intend to return to Praoe the next day for more molten black pepper goodness, but our timing let us down as we had to rush to catch a bus to Jakarta. From my cross-table spying,their fried gurame (type of fish) with a mango-based sauce did look particularly tempting. One to try next time.

Next up, smoked crabs at Captain's seafood. Caramelised onions, smothered over the arthropods, wrapped in banana leaves and then smoked. Not quite as finger licking good as Praoe's black pepper rendition, but not far off. The smoke-infused sweet onions are quite an ingenious creation, and pair well with the meaty crab.

Their kang-kong (water spinach) fried in a hot pan with beef, was also quite moreish – the hot wok aroma ('wok-hei') was particularly pleasing. Also tasty but not spectacular was their fried fish, whose perfectly crisp-on-the-outside moist-in-the-middle flesh was lacking a sauce to do it justice.

At both these restaurants, only 15-20 USD per person is all you'll need to enjoy fresh, excellently cooked seafood.

Praoe Seafood

Jalan Sumatera no. 31, Jawa Barat 40113, Bandung

Open: Monday – Sunday, 10am – 10pm

Captain's Seafood

http://www.captains-seafood.com/

Open: Sun -Thurs, 10am – 10pm; Fri – Sat, 10am - 11pm

Red Prawn Addiction

Look at this. It's absolutely beautiful, isn't it?

For those of you who know your prawns, you might guess that the intensity of its red colour is directly proportional to the intensity of its flavour. And you'd be correct.

The meat is succulent, like a normal prawn, but it is sweeter and packs a greater umami punch than its 'normal' prawn cousins. So the flesh alone would win some Prawn Oscars, but the head, now that would win some Prawn Nobel Prizes. The head flavour is really, really incredible, like a sweet, prawny, umami-loaded atomic bomb.

So no surprises when red prawns, known as gamberi rossi in Italian, featured in most of our meals during our time in Western Sicily. The best way to savour their taste is to try them cooked simply: grilled with salt, and a drizzle of lemon. Especially at a place like Osteria La Bettolaccia, who know how to pick the freshest red prawns, and cook them better than almost everywhere else in Trapani.

Also, try them with the local busiate pasta and almonds, or in a risotto. Both these dishes are executed sublimely at this Osteria.

But, this restaurant also serves up a dish where the red prawn isn't the star. Their cous cous is probably the best cous cous I've ever eaten. Not that I'm a cous cous expert, but I'm sure you'd find it pretty hard to find a cous cous dish better than this, especially if you love your seafood.

Fragrant, fluffy cous cous is paired with a rich, savoury seafood broth, topped with calamari and small red prawns deep fried to absolute perfection. Squeeze a little lemon on the fried seafood, and this completes the dish. Really, really good.

I couldn't praise this restaurant more highly; not only is the food sublime, but the service is impeccable. Combine this with a modern interior, relaxed atmosphere and very reasonable prices, this is probably my top recommendation in the whole of Western Sicily.

Osteria La Bettolaccia

Via Gen. Enrico Fardella, 23/25, 91100 Trapani TP

Hours: Mon – Fri 12 – 13pm, 8 – 11pm; Sat – Sun 12 – 3pm, 8 – 11.30pm

http://www.labettolaccia.it

Antipasti never tasted so good

So some of you might not agree with what I'm about to write. Compared to antipasti found in other regions of Italy, I far prefer Sicily's light, bold and zesty versions. For a true home-made taste of such creations, I'd recommend Zia Pina in Palermo, which serves up exceedingly good antipasti (buffet style, but don't let that put you off) and simple seafood.

Look at this antipasti spread. Making you hungry? Well, it should. Make you very.

Anyway, what are these delicious delights? They range from simply grilled aubergines topped with sweet tomato sauce, mushrooms grilled with cheese, aubergines stuffed with cheese, breadcrumbs and a hint of orange peel, sardine balls in a sweet-sour vinegar based sauce… I could go on, but all you need to know is how good they tasted, each and every one of them.

The seafood here is pretty good too – we had fried calamari (very fresh, though a tad over-fried), and grilled large prawns (also very fresh, though a tad under-cooked for my taste).

Zia Pina

Via Cassari 69, Palermo

Hours: Mon – Sat: 12 – 3.30pm (lunchtime only)

Closed Sunday

Cost: Antipasti + seafood ~ 20 Euro per person, excl alcohol

Grilled greatness, boiled brilliance

Ahh Palermo's streetfood scene. Arancine, I'll mention these balls of greatness in another post. Let's get straight to stuff which might not sound ideal for some people's palates.

In Palermo's Vucceria market, in the evenings, you'll find a piazza (square) where a number of street vendors are serving up some delicious Sicilian street-treats.

Stigghiola, grilled lamb's intestines. This is what I wanna talk about. Normally, I'm not an innards kind of person but this time, I must admit, I was impressed. Charred and crunchy on the outside, tender and slightly fatty in the middle, and definitely free of that innard or strong 'lamb taste', this street snack was surprisingly addictive. Highly recommended.

And, it'd be pretty hard to miss the guy selling octopus in the middle of the square. When overcooked, octopus can be really rubbery and tough – but this guy really knows how to boil these eight-tentacled creatures. Drizzle on a bit of lemon juice and you're good to go.

Then, as the locals do, pop over to Taverna Azzurra (on the corner of the square) and wash down those delicious lamb's innards and octopus tentacles with a beverage of your choice.

La Vucciria, Piazza Caracciolo

Beach-side bites

We were in Favignana, an island famed for its glorious beaches whose crystal clear emerald-blue waters were just too alluring to turn down. The most famous of which, Cala Rossa, was our first destination. About 3km from the main port, we rented bikes and set off straightaway in a bid to reach there before the crowds (note that we took the 7.15am Ustica Lines ferry over from Trapani on mainland Sicily).

You'd be surprised at how hot cycling at 8.30am under the mid-August Sicilian sun can be. After taking a couple of wrong turns we made it to Cala Rossa. My arms were feeling toasty already, even with some SPF 50 suntan lotion on.

As you can see, Cala Rossa is worth the journey. Its waters are as clear as some of the best beaches I've seen anywhere in South East Asia.

You might be wondering why I haven't mentioned a single word about food after 8 sentences and a few pics. Your patience is rewarded: next to Cala Rossa, a guy sells Pane Cunzato – a typical Sicilian sandwich filled to the brim with delicious ingredients including tomatoes, anchovies, olive oil, dried oregano,basil and capers – pretty awesome stuff.

Next stop. Cala Azzurra – but on the way, we had to stop by a road-side truck shaped like a lemon. Who wouldn't? We each order one of their 'special' granitas – lemon-infused shaved ice with fresh orange juice on top. Unbelievably refreshing.

Cala Azzurra was pretty nice but wasn't much in comparison with its sister Rossa. So, I'll start talking about food again. Before you leave Favignana, don't miss some fantastic gelato near the port, at Mama's. My two scoops of the pistachio and fig were right on the mark – creamy but not too thick, as proper gelato should be, and whose flavours really showcased the earthy nuttiness of the pistachio and the fruity nuttiness of the fig.

Gelateria Mama's Ice Cream

Via Molo S. Leonardo, 31, 91023 Favignana TP

Hours: Mon – Sun: 9.30am - 11pm

An exemplary plate of pasta

After being semi-roasted in the heat of Favignana, we needed a restaurant extremely close to where we were staying. Fortunately, Salirosso was literally just round the corner.

We'd tried some Gamberi Rossi (red prawns) earlier in Scopello and we were craving more. So we shared three dishes: firstly, gamberi rossi with paccheri (large, flat tubes of pasta) and cherry tomatoes – this was probably the best pasta dish we ate on the whole trip. The pasta was immaculately al dente, the sauce had the perfect balance of saltiness and sweetness, and these prawns – well, they were just phenomenal. I'll shower these prawns with more praise in another post.

Next, a scampi (langoustine) soup with linguine. This was quite tasty, but the soup was a tad too salty for our taste. The spaghetti a la vongole (with clams) was better – whose creamy sauce was given an interesting twist by being blended with radicchio (a type of bitter red lettuce). But, when eaten alongside the red prawn paccheri, these dishes were always going to be overshadowed.

But Salirosso is not just a one trick pony (or should I say red prawn). They also make extremely good desserts. Their Torta Salirosso, whose almond, ricotta and chocolate flavours balanced each other with surpeme precision, was pretty sublime. And their pistachio parfait, which oozed the sweet nuttiness of those little green gems which by this point of the trip I was addicted to, another winner.

Salirosso

Via Sant'Eligio, 13, 91100 Trapani TP

Hours: Mon – Sun: 8pm – 11.30pm

About 20 Euro per person excl. alcohol

https://www.facebook.com/Salirosso

My guide to eating Pintxos in the Old Quarter

Pictures, opening times and a few words are all you need... so please, go forth and enjoy some of Donostia's best pintxos!

Goiz Argi

In a nutshell: Simple pintxos, focusing on making the star ingredients stand out. Best to try their hot pintxos as recommended below:

Txipirones a la plancha - Pan fried baby squid - exceedingly fresh and tasty

Gambas a la plancha - pan fried prawns with salsa

Txangurro al horno - Baked spider crab - creamy and unctuous

Fermin Calbeton Kalea 4

Wed - Sun 18:30 - 23:30
Wed - Mon 09:30 - 15:30
Closed Tuesday

http://www.tripadvisor.com.sg/Restaurant_Review-g187457-d989170-Reviews-Bar_Goiz_Argi-San_Sebastian_Donostia_Guipuzcoa_Province_Basque_Country.html

Bar Zeruko

In a nutshell: Modern, creative pintxos which are a big on flavour and are quite daring. 

'La Hoguera' - 'The Bonfire' - melt-in-your-mouth cured cod 'smoking' on a mini bbq - my favourite pintxo!

Lagostino frito - Giant prawn wrapped in vermicelli noodles, strawberry sauce (which goes surprisingly well with the fried prawn!)

Morcilla, pistachio and strawberry sauce- an odd but delicious combination

Calle Pescaderia 10

Tues - Sat 12pm - 4pm, 7pm - 12am
Sun 12pm - 4pm
Mon Closed

http://www.barzeruko.com/

Bar Azkena

In a nutshell: Open for breakfast and lunch, this place focuses on awesome omelettes, and after 11.30am you will be treated to modern, elegant and highly sophisticated modern hot pintxos – and all of them are outstanding – I think no other pintxo bar serves this level of cooking. Especially when these hot pintxos are only 3 euro each. Phenomenal value. 

My favourite pintxo bar!

Tortilla de bacalao - cod omelette, tastes better than it sounds!

Bacalao frito con salsa de pimenta verde y tinta- pan fried cod, green pepper sauce and squid ink 

Morcilla de cebolla y berza - Blood sausage of onion and cabbage, green pepper and red bean salsa. A subtle yet sublime dish

Confit iberico pork, orange and champagne reduction, thyme flavoured wafer

Berejena rellena de lomo adobado - Stuffed aubergine with marinated tenderloin

Kokotxa de bacalao en salsa verde acompanado con laminas de pulpo y una espuma de beberechos - Cod throats with green sauce, slices of octopus and foam - melts in your mouth, quite delicious 

Basement floor
Mercado La Bretxa

Mon - Sat 08:00 - 17:00
Closed Sun

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mercado-la-bretxa-BAR-Azkena/701460156550319?sk=info&tab=page_info

La Vina

In a nutshell: Famous for their Basque cheesecake

Cheesecake - light and airy yet rich and decadent, 'burnt' on the outside yet fluffy in the middle, one of the best cheesecakes I've ever eaten

Calle del Treinta y Uno de Agosto 3

Tues - Sun 10:30am - 5pm, 6.30pm - 12am
Closed Mon

http://lavinarestaurante.com/

Borda Berri

In a nutshell: Hot pintxos, cooked to order. Big, bold flavours. Sometimes a little salty but these dishes are never dull! All the below are highly recommended, especially the pig's ears (unfortunately no picture):

Arroz bomba con txipiron - Mixed rice with baby squid

Carrillera de ternera en vino tinto - Beef cheeks slowly braised in red wine

'Kebab' de costilla de cerdo - Pork rib 'kebab' - crisp on the outside, tender in the middle, brought to life with notes of cumin

Ravioli de txangurro - ravioli stuffed with creamy spider crab

Calle Fermin Calbeton 12

Mon - Sat 1pm - 4pm, 8.30pm - 10.30pm
Sun Closed

http://www.yelp.com.sg/biz/borda-berri-san-sebasti%C3%A1n-2

La Cuchara de San Telmo

In a nutshell: In some ways, the cooking style is similar to Borda Berri - classic dishes/ingredients, brought to life with a bit of modern flair. Everything was tasty, but not as well executed as Borda Berri

Risotto Cremoso - Creamy Risotto

Manita de ministro - sauteed pig's trotter - their best pintxo, crisp on the outside and gelatinous within

Cochinillo de salamanca asado lentamente con cerveza - Suckling pig from Salamanca slow-roasted with beer

Vieira - seared scallop - fresh and tasty, but I expected more

Pulpo de roca asado - roasted rock octopus with peppers - the octopus was a tad overcooked 

Calle del Treinta y Uno de Agosto 28

Tues 7.30pm - 11.30pm
Weds - Sun 12.30pm - 5.30pm, 7.30pm - 11.30pm
Closed Mon

http://www.yelp.com.sg/biz/la-cuchara-de-san-telmo-san-sebasti%C3%A1n-2

A Fuego Negro

In a nutshell: Experimental tapas, with bold, unique flavours. Uses ingredients and techniques from around the world to create dishes which are distinctly different to those pintxo bars mentioned above.

Tuna and tomato tartare

Grilled whole quail with sweet potato puree

Calle del Treinta y Uno de Agosto 31

Tues - Sun 10am - 12am
Mon Closed

http://www.afuegonegro.com/